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It is often said that the most flattering focal length for portraits is 85mm (on a full-frame camera). This is because to get a classic head and shoulders composition with an 85mm lens means standing at a distant from the subject that happens to give the most flattering perspective on the face. Using a wider lens would mean physically standing closer to get the same composition, which would then change the perspective and make the face look more convex.
But this loose ‘rule’ only applies to head and shoulders compositions. If you want a full body shot, a wider lens from the same position may be the best option.
Sometimes, breaking the rules can produce more eye-catching and unusual results. A wide-angle lens, for example, might suit an environmental portrait, where you want to capture the subject in their surroundings.
Recommended by genre
It is often said that the most flattering focal length for portraits is 85mm (on a full-frame camera). This is because to get a classic head and shoulders composition with an 85mm lens means standing at a distant from the subject that happens to give the most flattering perspective on the face. Using a wider lens would mean physically standing closer to get the same composition, which would then change the perspective and make the face look more convex.
Prime lenses are often the preferred option for portraits because they tend to have wider maximum apertures, which means a shallow depth-of-field. While 85mm is the classic focal length for portraits, anywhere between 50mm and 135mm are very commonly used. The longer the lens, the tighter the angle-of-view, meaning less of the background will be visible assuming the same composition. Zooms are also useful portrait lenses as they can be more versatile. In particular the 24-70mm F2.8 and the 70-200mm F2.8 are favourites with portrait photographers.
85mm F1.4 DG DN
Sigma’s flagship full-frame mirrorless ultra-wide-angle zoom offers razor-sharp images corner-to-corner, an F2.8 aperture and a rear filter holder. A DSLR version is also available.
90mm F2.8 DG DN
The 16-28mm F2.8 is a mirrorless optic that sits in the Contemporary line, and boasts superb image quality, exceptional portability and a front filter thread. A petal lens hood is included.
105mm F1.4 DG HSM
This wide-angle mirrorless prime is ideal for landscapes, delivering incredible image quality across the whole frame. It’s also a superb option for astro thanks it’s ultra-fast aperture.
Wider angle lenses, usually between 20mm and 50mm, are sometimes used by portrait photographers for a number of reasons. Firstly, they are able to capture more of the background behind the subject, putting them in context with their environment. This can give the image a sense of place and help to tell a story about the person. Wide-angles also exaggerate scale so that nearer objects appear comparatively larger than they really. This can make a person appear more three dimensional within the frame, or, if shot from slightly underneath, more imposing.
24mm F1.4 DG DN
Perfect for wider environmental portraits while still maintaining a shallow depth-of-field, the 24mm offers razor-sharp results, an F2.8 aperture, AFL buttons and a rear filter holder.
40mm F1.4 DG HSM
Originally designed for the cine market, this wide-standard prime is one of the sharpest lenses in the entire Sigma range. Its F1.4 aperture provides a very shallow depth-of-field.
35mm F1.4 DG DN
This fast, wide-standard mirrorless prime is ideal for portraits, delivering incredible image quality across the whole frame. It has an aperture ring, AFL buttons and lockable hood.
Holly is one of the UK’s leading portrait, commercial and advertising photographers. She works with a wide range of clients including brands, celebrities, and even royalty, to create imagery for marketing campaigns, web and TV. Holly is based in London and Brighton, and works both in the studio and on location, where she loves to tell the narrative through the environment. Holly uses Sigma lenses on a Nikon body.
“With a focal length close to the human eye, this is my go-to lens for true-to-life portraits. I can move from being close to a subject to include environmental details with ease. The large aperture ensures I have options for low light situations.”
“This all-rounder delivers incredible optics across the whole focal range. It can handle environmental portraits in tight spaces, or more traditional portrait compositions. If you only own one lens for portraits, this should be it.”
“This is my largest & heaviest lens, but has exceptional build and glass, creating the most beautiful Bokeh. The focus is pin sharp, and for close portraits this is an exceptional choice with the ability to open up to F1.4 for amazing fall off. This lens is unbeatable.”
Go behind the lens with professional British fashion photographer Holly Wren. Follow her on an in-studio and on-location fashion shoot in Brighton and find out how she crafts her shots and chooses her lenses.
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